Long time, no write…

So, it’s been a while, hasn’t it?  I’ve had essay on essay on homework assignment on internship stuff, so this past month has been a mess.  However, things are starting to wind down, so I bring you a quick catch-up on my life for these past two months, complete with teaching opportunities, fashion contests and a new family (those Hamiltons were just too boring, ya know?). 

AMERICAN HISTORY  

It all started when I accompanied Kristen to the gym.  Night had fallen, and as we strolled along the road to the entrance, a black car slowed in front of us.  Weird.  I paused, expecting the windows to roll down, but nothing happened.  We kept going.  Finally, the car stopped, and a man’s head peered out the window.

“Excuse me… are you American?”

“Yes.”

“Oh.”  The man rolled up his window after this interrogation was over, and the car continued on.  Curiouser and curiouser— perhaps inquiring after countries of origin was his evening hobby.  “Are you American?  No?  Well, how about you?”  And after finally having found one, he’d leave, satiated, knowing that there were indeed Americans wandering around Chinese college campuses.

Suddenly, the car stopped, and he jumped out and jogged over.  “I’m normally a shy guy, don’t do this, but…” He gave us his card.  “Would you like to teach American history?”

Hmm.  Why not?

The students were all headed out to American high schools at the beginning of the summer, so their English was pretty good, but I  knew it was going to be a struggle after the first day of class when I tried to explain Puritans.  My students did not know the word, which was understandable.  I said that they were Christians.  

There were blank stares.

“Do you….” I stared back, slightly shocked.  “Do you know what Christianity is?”

One of the students raised his hand hesitantly.  “Jesus?” he guessed.

The rest of the class was spent discussing the Catholic Church, the Protestant reformation and more.  Afterwards, the assistant director of the teaching company tapped me on the shoulder.  “The students say you’re talking about material that isn’t very important,” she said shyly. 

They seemed stunned by fairly commonplace facts— the practice of bleeding, for example.  “Wo cao,” the boys breathed whenever another European medical mishap occurred, and everyone burst out laughing. 

They also enjoyed rating the physical attractiveness of the current day’s batch of historical figures.  John C. Calhoun got hands in front of eyes out of disgust, Ernest Hemingway was a resounding success (until his 60 year old picture was also shown), and Abe Lincoln simply elicited guffaws.  “God!  What did his wife look like?” they asked.  I showed them.  They laughed even harder.

Overall, I really enjoyed the experience.  I got to teach them things they’d never heard of before: for example, introducing them for the very first time to the Beatles and Elvis.  After showing them a clip of “I Want to Hold Your Hand,” one boy hummed along and bobbed his head.  “I think it’s catchy,” he said.  “Have you heard this before?”  I asked.  “No,” he replied.  “I’ve never heard the Beatles.”)

I was also able to give them a view of history from an American perspective.  My last class was on the Vietnam war, and I showed them pictures that I had seen when I was their age.  One was a monk who had set himself on fire in protest of the Catholicization of South Vietnam (instigated by an American-backed dictator).  I mentioned that this photo disgusted and repulsed Americans, who began to wonder why they were involved in the war effort there.  One student shook his head vehemently. 

“But monks do this all the time!  All the time!  They love setting themselves on fire!  Don’t like Tibet policy?  Set themselves on fire!  Don’t like the government?  Set themselves on fire!  They all do that!  It’s their favorite thing to do!  Why do Americans think this is special?”

I suppose if the American public in the 1970s thought more like the Chinese, the Vietnam War might have gone on for quite a bit longer.

 

HOST FAMILY

I moved in with a host family right after my visit to the Philippines.  I wasn’t entirely sure it was the right choice, but for practicing Chinese, I figured it would probably be the best thing.  My “father” is a feisty, talkative Beijinger who is extremely friendly and always makes me feel at home.  He runs his own company, creating technology to clean up China’s water.  I’d imagined him as some great crusader, burning with a passion to save the lives of millions of Chinese who drank polluted water every day. 

“I thought I could make a lot of money,” he said when I asked his reasons for the start-up.

He loves cooking, and gets no greater pleasure than hearing that his meals were well-prepared.  “See!” he crowed, after I’d proclaimed his noodles excellent, “I am the best cook!  I should open up my own restaurant in the United States!  Seven dollars a bowl!  Authentic Beijing food!”  He doesn’t speak English well, but loves trying out simple phrases.  In Chinese, he’ll tell me to eat dinner—chi fan, a phrase you learn in the first week of Mandarin.  Then he’ll repeat, haltingly but faintly proud— “Eat.  Food.”

Once, he told me that I had come home “shizhun.”  I asked him what the phrase meant, and he replied, in his one-note, staccato manner, “On. Time.”  His wife patted him on the arm, and his daughter squealed with surprise.  He grinned widely, thumping his hand on his chest.  “God, my English is fantastic,” he said in Chinese.

He also has a penchant for asking questions that may be considered rude by American standards.  “How big is your house?  How many bathrooms?  Do you have a boyfriend?  Have you ever had a boyfriend?  What score did you get on your ACT?  What’s the best score you could get?  How much is your college tuition?  How much merit money do you get a year?”

Once, he asked about the price of my house.  I’d answered several of these types of answers already, so after couple seconds’ hesitation, knowing that it was acceptable in Chinese society, I answered. 

The daughter hit my arm.  “No!”  she wailed.  “He asked how many square meters it was!” 

My “mother” is a dentist who works in a hospital.  Apparently, dentists in China are not the same as they are in the States, and here they usually deal with aching teeth or surgery instead of cosmetic issues or general checkups.  She is much quieter than her husband, but is just as welcoming.  She only uses Chinese to speak, but I soon realized that she was hiding a wealth of English vocabulary up her sleeve.

When I talk with her husband, asking about the meaning of a word he used, she will always break in regardless of what activity she is doing at the time. 

“Flex-ib-le,” she says behind a magazine.  “Mus-cle,” she says in the kitchen.  “Treach-er-y,” she says while peeling an apple.

 One of my favorites was when they were discussing their cousin, who enjoyed fast cars and was going to see some type of show.  After inquiring what type of car show, the family kept repeating one word over and over.  A stunt show?  No.  A NASCAR thing?  No.  Finally, Xianmei broke in. 

“Dri…ft….” she said faintly.

“What?”  I said.

“Drift,” she repeated with more confidence.

“Like… Tokyo Drift?”

She shrugged, embarrassed.  “Drift,” she repeated.

The daughter is the official translator of the family at the tender age of 12.  She performs extremely well in school, and loves to practice her English with me.  Frankly, I’m astounded with how much she works—she gets home, sits down at her desk and goes for it.  Many times I try to ask her how her day was, and she responds slightly glumly, “Sorry— I have to work.” 

She sees her best friend once every three months, and on the weekends, she is shuttled from extra math classes to English classes to another math class.  When they say that Chinese parents put an emphasis on education, I wasn’t aware of the scope.  She is almost fascinated to the point of obsession by my sisters, pouring over the one photograph that I have of them (thanks for sending that, Mom).  Each one she analyzes.  “She’s so pretty.  I think she’s nice.  Is she nice?  Your little sister looks so cool…” 

Several times I’ve come home to find the picture moved around—on the bed, on the kitchen table, on the desk.  Anytime there is a visitor, she grabs the photo to show it off and recite my family’s names— Sydney, Elise, and Cameron (although she does wonder why Sydney was named after a city in Australia and thinks Cameron is not fitting for a 12-year old). 

 Overall, it was a fantastic fit, and I love living with them.  It’ll be pretty sad when I have to leave them… but I guess that won’t be for another week or so, so I’ll hold off on the wah-wahs for a while.

QIPAO CONTEST

One of my American friends heard about a qipao (traditional Chinese dress) contest going on at our school, and suggested I take part.  So, on a whim, I did.  I had to prepare a “special talent”, and on the list of recommended acts was ‘poem recitation.’ So I thought, hey, I act sometimes, I’ll just do Shakespeare.  

I performed Romeo’s balcony scene (a throwback to my participation in a very odd, ultimately doomed gender-swapped college version of the Bard’s most famous work), and the judges nodded appreciatively, and then paused.

“Uh… that’s in English,” they said.

“Yes,” I said, and then realized much too late why this was a potential problem. 

“Can you do something else?  Sing?”

Oh dear God.  I hate singing publicly, and this was just about as on the spot as you could get.  I chose the overdone but utterly sing-able “I Dreamed a Dream.”  They started checking their cell phones halfway through.

I left, knowing that I had failed… but at least I missed half an hour of class for it, so there’s a plus.  So, much to my surprise, I got a text the next day saying that I had been chosen for the final 12, and would I mind going to a qipao store near Tiananmen Square to choose my outfit?

Well, of course I could.  All the “waiguoren” (foreigners) came with, and there were seven in total, ranging from Japanese to Korean to Indonesian to Russian.  The dresses were all built to an Asian body (AKA, no butts), so I had to choose the only one that could be jimmied up over my hips.  Things got infinitely stranger after that, as we were then required to go to a professional studio to have hair and makeup done.  The heads of the competition also brought baijiu—to “loosen up” before the photo shoot, they said.  The time was two o’clock in the afternoon.

I had no idea that this was going to be an America’s Next Top Model type shindig, and I entered the photo shoot area just like I did for fifth grade school pictures— replete with an innocent, wide smile and awkwardly stiff back posture.  The photographer took two pictures of me, then pulled away from the lens.  “Um… more… cool,” she suggested.

I put my hands on my hips.  She took a few more, and then gave up again.

“Just pretend you’re cool,” she said again.

I put my right foot in front of my left.  She shook her head.

“Like… sexy…”

I put my hand on my face, but judging by their faces, it seemed less the act of an enticing, nubile young lady, but rather an alternate pose of “The Thinker.” 

I had to get a few tips, but ultimately, I came away with one or two photographs they deemed “hai keyi”: just barely acceptable.

Perhaps it was for the best then that I recently received a text from the competition folks asking me when my last day in China was.  I told them June 7th, knowing that the competition was the 6th.

They sent back a little emoji of a broken heart.  As June 4th is the 25th anniversary of the Tian’anmen Square incident, the Chinese government has banned any activities or large gatherings until June 7th (especially those involving foreigners, the contest runners informed me).  

Also, instead of writing “June 4th”, they instead wrote “64″ (which caused me a hell of a lot of confusion before I asked a Chinese friend to translate).  Why?  Because if they’d written it any other way, the censors would have blocked the text.

If you are shaking your head in disbelief, I say what my program director said— “Well… it’s China.”

So, thanks a lot, Chinese Communist Party.  The world will never see my catwalk and warbling impression of Susan Boyle.

Getting into the Beijing Swing

So, I’ve been here for almost three weeks.  Things that once seemed strange, unnatural and sometimes plain bizarre are now… well, still the same, but I’ve grown used to it.  Now, I’ve fallen back into the quotidian humdrums of college life, even if there are some new and peculiarly Chinese additions. For example–

SUBWAY (地铁)

Clean or dirty, new or old, subways are pretty much the same anywhere you go.  Well, the Beijing subway’s got two great fixtures that really blow all the others out of the park.  One: people.

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I don’t know how we squeezed on, but we managed.  There is no elbow room, breathing space, stretching capacity or covering-the-mouth-for-a-quick-yawn opportunity. You are completely and utterly stuck.  This is all exacerbated by 2) speed.  Beijing doors wait for no man.  Twenty seconds after the doors’ opening, a brusque bell sounds, and suddenly people are pressing against you, behind you, across you, and you need to get on NOW.  It’s a hurried race to enter or exit, and although I tried to play the polite foreigner for the first few times, the near loss of my hand led me to reconsider.  Just last week, I accidentally pushed a three-year old child of the car while I was edging my way out.  Thankfully, his spry grandmother managed to grab the hood of his coat to wrench him back inside seconds before the doors slammed shut.  Yes, this is who I’ve become… watch out, Peircegiving feasters.  I’m ready.

TRIVIA NIGHTS

A local haunt for foreign students and teachers alike, Lush offers burgers, salads and more to Westerners wanting a taste of home.  They also have a tough trivia night every Wednesday, and although our team did fall short on the name, we ended up in 2nd place, only one point behind the first place team.  I’ve only managed this feat once at Kenyon, so these trivia sessions might be more productive than I’m used to… (Trivia is also all in English, which may explain our winning streak.)

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“SHOPPING” (购物)

“Oh, you’ll love the haggling! It’s so great!” says everyone.  Well, you’re probably not so cheap that you won’t buy an article of clothing over $30.  Yes, that sad sack is me.  Parting with $50 is harder than bidding my dog goodbye for the semester (sorry, Holly).  It would seem like a Scrooge’s paradise– getting the price down lower and lower, eventually winning the deal and achieving that glow of satisfaction after– but let me assure you, it’s not.  First off, if you’re a foreigner, the starting price automatically doubles.  I recently went to buy a new spring jacket and found a slim yellow coat that was just gorgeous.

I found the store owner.  She had pin-straight hair, a forest of black eyelashes and bright, long nails that were just itching to grip a Starbucks latte.  “多少钱?” I asked in my best Mandarin.  How much?  She gave a frosty smile that didn’t touch her made-up eyes.  “Two thousand, eight hundred kuai,” she said, then poked some numbers on her phone and started gabbing away.  That’s about 500 American dollars, and there’s no way in hell that thing costs more than 40.  All right.  Game on.

“Fifty kuai,” I countered.  Around 8 dollars.  She looked at me pityingly.  “No,” she said, then grabbed a small knife along with an apple and started peeling with ferocity.  I stared, hoping that my condescending glare would back her down.  She kept peeling.

“I’m a student,” I finally said after two minutes had passed. “I don’t have any money.”

She glanced up, a tight smile on her face.  “Well, then, you probably shouldn’t be shopping here,” she responded curtly.

A Chinese girl entered and pointed at the yellow coat, asking if there was another color available.  The shop owner showed her a black one that was starting at 800 kuai– 120 dollars.  I was flabbergasted.  “But it’s the same coat!” I spluttered.

She shook her head and smirked, a teacher listening to a child try to argue that the world was flat.  “It’s not the same quality,” she simpered condescendingly.

Fine.  Play it that way.  I walked up to the coat, examining it.  They had spelled Burberry wrong. I kindly informed her of the false branding, wondering if a fake coat could really be sold for such a high price.  Well, I shouldn’t have told this to a woman with a knife in her hands, because she suddenly burst out into high-speed Mandarin and I stepped back, mildly concerned for my safety.  Finally, she strode out the door, leaving slivers of red apple peels in her wake.

This was just one story in a line of dozens, and unhappily, I came out of the clothing market with no coat and three hours worth of failed bartering under my belt.  I like finding the deals, not working for them.  I told my language partner my woeful story, and he nodded.

“It’s because you’re a waiguo ren [foreigner],” he said confidently.  “Of course you’re not going to get deals.”

At least there are some real gems such as these out there to see-

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LANGUAGE PARTNER (语半)

In addition to taking Chinese classes, each student is assigned a “language partner”, who is Chinese.  It’s three hours of forced alone time every week, so depending on who you get, this could be either a lifelong friendship or torture.  Out of the 11 language partners, 10 are girls, and I happened to be paired with the boy.  Right after we met, he hustled us outside, covering his face in embarrassment.  “Too many girls!” he cried.

He’s an engineer who builds robots.  “Holy shit!” I exclaimed, and asked how to say it in Chinese.  He told me with a caveat– “You can’t say that, though.  Girls don’t swear in China.”

I think I’ve inadvertently offended him on several occasions.  One of which dealt with politics.  He professed that he didn’t like the Chinese government, but there was nothing he could do, so he simply avoided the topic.  “I am just one person,” he said confidently.  “One person cannot make a difference.  China has so many people.  I only care about myself.”

“So, you just ignore politics, then.”

“Yes. I am only one person, and I cannot change it.” He shrugged.

“Well,” I said, genuinely curious, “do your peers feel the same way as you do about the government?”

“Oh, yes,” he replied.

“So… you’re not just one person, then.”

There was a long pause, and he sipped at his orange juice, avoiding my gaze.  “Okay,” he said, standing up.  “Let’s go.”  And we left the restaurant, the conversation completely dropped.

CAFETERIA (餐厅)

I’ve heard that China is one of the most capitalistic societies in the world, and I find this quality most starkly in our school cafeteria.  There are no meal plans here– every food item is priced differently.  Meats range from $1.33 – $1.00 a scoop, while rice only costs .5 yuan (or about 8 American cents).  The first two floors are usually cheaper than the third, which offers more restaurant-style dishes.  And that’s where the weirdness sets in.

A line of food vats run along the walls, but this time, above each individual section, there is a different menu.  I assumed this to be like it is in the States– one section offering “comfort” food, the other international, and one salad, etc. etc.  But eventually I discovered that that was certainly not the case.  Instead, these were individual restaurants competing for business.  For dinner almost every night, I walk by and hear, “Ahh, ni hao, ni hao, yao ji rou ma? Ji rou ma?  Zhe ge hen hao chi!”  (Want chicken?  Chicken?  This one’s really good…)  And then as I pass, another restaurant will start up with the same talk.

Kristen once grabbed some veggies and was headed out to the table when a woman stopped her.  “How much did you pay for that?” she asked.  Kristen said three kuai.  The woman shook her head, appalled. “If you would have come to my store, it would have been 2.”

Everything is constantly hawked.  If you even deign a look at a stall, the worker will run over, pushing menus and specific dishes down your throat.  It’s bonkers.  Even as you exit the cafeteria building, there are always 2 different people outside, handing out flyers for different restaurants in the area.  I guess you can get a little taste of the U.S. in China after all (both literally and figuratively…).

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So, that’s about it for now– I’m heading out Xi’an this weekend to see the Terracotta warriors, and the week after that, will be heading to Yun’nan in southern China.  You probably won’t be hearing from me in a while– 再见,朋友们!

Kelsey

The Art of Chinglish (but mostly -nglish)

With orientation over with, it was time to begin living my own life in Beijing… and the language barrier, not really considered during my follow-the-guy-who-speaks-fluent-Chinese program intro, suddenly became apparent.  After checking out a potential gym membership, I decided it was only worth it if I could swim, but I needed to pay extra to use the pool.  Okay, so how much more did I need to pay?  It was a simple enough question, but my Chinese was apparently not up to the task, as after thirty minutes of gesturing, fumbling in rudimentary Mandarin that a 5 year old would scoff at, and running back and forth between the main desk and the pool attendants, I discovered that (lo and behold!) you didn’t need a membership at all to use the pool.

And when menus looked like this, I knew I was totally screwed.

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Good thing Chinese classes started up this week.

CLASS (上课)

Two hours, four times a week.  The teacher is nice, and including me, the class has three (!) people.  I was hoping for a little bit more Chinese time, but if I hit the streets and try to chat with as many Chinese as I can, I’ll probably learn just as much as if I were sitting in the classroom.  Later on in the semester, we’ll start sociology and foreign policy classes on China (and, more importantly, a kung fu class.  I fully expect to come out looking like Stephen Chow in Kung Fu Hustle).

ImageI’m still waiting on my internship as well, but there are some pretty cool possibilities that the program director brought up… more updates on this front soon.  Anyway, with all this free time, what have I been up to?

EXPLORING BLCU (北京语言大学)

Yesterday was the clearest day I’d seen in Beijing so far (for comparison, I also give you the average view from my dorm room window.)

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So, you get my excitement.  To celebrate, I went on a run on the track outside the gym.  As I walked by a fenced playground, replete in my yoga pants, sneakers, ponytail and running jacket, a little boy toddled away from his mother and hooked his fingers in the linked fence.  “Hello,” he said, in an extraordinarily American-sounding accent.  I smiled back, waving. “Ni hao!”  He stared blankly, as though I were a performing monkey that had merely flopped over when poked instead of dancing.  His mother rushed over.  “Ni hao, ni hao!” she prodded him, but the boy ambled away, now entirely uninterested.

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The rest of the campus is equally as beautiful, and I explored for about three hours, finding little parks, supermarkets and even American-style cafes that serve tuna melts.  So far, I’m still good with Chinese food, but when the time comes, I’m glad I know that tuna sandwiches are close by.

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BIRD’S NEST

After getting back to the dorms, some students and I decided to trek the hour and fifteen minute walk to the Bird’s Nest, the home of the 2008 Olympic Games.  Getting there was treacherous, due to one particular intersection right outside of the Olympic park.  To give you the scene– eight lanes of traffic running north to south, and eight running east to west.  The pedestrians have a green light.  But, remember, you’re in Beijing now, and these rules don’t apply.  Cars go when they choose, and I actually witnessed cars turning left, turning right and going straight all into the same lane.  There were cars stranded in the middle of the intersection, boxed in by cars turning left but unable to continue by another stream going another way.

We stood, stunned at the situation before us.  In times like these, my new motto has been “strength in numbers”, and as a cluster of 15 Chinese decided to brave the waters, we jumped in with them.  Cars still zoomed around us, and our group, overwhelmed, stopped in the median for a break.  One older man, a jaunty cap on his shaved head and smoking cigarette hanging out of his mouth, kept strolling.  He pulsated confidence and bravado.  I couldn’t resist. I followed.

“NOOO, Kelsey!” one of my classmates cried, but it was too late.  I was in the middle of traffic.  I became Frogger, breaking into a run so the turning car wouldn’t nick me.  Two cars in two different lanes came swerving from a left-hand turn, and I stood my ground, sandwiched between both of them.  I ran the rest of the way, a little startled at my own daring, and when I finally landed on the sidewalk, I felt a curiously strong sense of satisfaction.  And then I saw the old man fifty feet away from me, who had never broke into a run, or even paused for the cars, continuing on his own merry way.

My hero.

Good thing the Bird’s Nest was worth the journey (pics from middle and end of the day)–

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I wasn’t sure what I expected in the center of the track (a gold statue of Usain Bolt?  Some sort of memorial to the incredible opening ceremonies?) but it certainly wasn’t this.

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Family winter wonderland… too bad we didn’t get to stop in.  Overall, it was a great day, and I hope that I’ll see a sky this blue again soon!

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NEXT UP: Rush hour: subway style, trivia time, and the shopping expedition from hell (or, why the stingy should not shop in China)

Beijing Bound

FLIGHT (坐飞机)

“外国人,” says the boy with surprise, directly pointing at me as he shuffles his way down the plane aisle.  Foreigner.  And so it already begins, before we even take off from London.

We talk, and he kindly compliments my Chinese.  He’s in 9th grade, and he chats nearly non-stop from London to Beijing, only taking a break for a brief two hour nap.  I’ve never heard so many conversation starters.  “Do you like China? What music do you listen to? Do you watch TV? Superhero movies?  What’s your favorite Chinese food?  Have you been to China before?  Have you been to Paris?  Did you like London? Have you heard of Tianjin? Do you have any children?” (That last one was due to my unfortunate Chinese pronunciation, somehow saying that my husband was Chinese rather than grandfather…)  After clearing up the mistake, he nods.  “So you are a….” He searches for his online dictionary, and hands it to me.  Hybrid, it reads.  Well… I guess.

I look out the window as the plane touches down.  The boy turns to me, smiling.  “Welcome to Beijing,” he says, his face brimming with good-will.  His classmate turns to him.  “You’re not even from Beijing, Li Quan. You totally can’t say that.”

He swats at her, his face red.  “Well, I’m Chinese,” he mumbles.

AIRPORT (飞机场)

Kristen and I wait for five hours to meet our program directors for a ride to the university.  It’s a long wait, as the airport is not heated, and it’s about 25 degrees in Beijing.  After having been kept up by the chatty high-schooler, I’m absolutely exhausted.  Fortified (to use the term) by Kristen’s scarf, my Cossack winter hat and leather gloves, I copy other Chinese around me and lay down on the lobby seats, using my backpack as a pillow.

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THE PROGRAM (项目)

We attend the Beijing University of Foreign Languages, but our classes are taught by professors recruited for our specific program.  The dorms are wonderful– I’ve got a TV, tons of shelves and a wardrobe, and a private bathroom (only complaint: the beds are actually just a small cot over a slab of wood, so my posture is going to be excellent after this trip).  So far, we’ve done a lot, such as…

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Yes, we usually spend about 4 hours a day eating.  And I understand why– the food is absolutely incredible.  We’ve also seen a couple of other sights on the orientation, like Tiananmen Square–

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(ME AND MY MAIN BOY MAO <3333 )

And saw the street vendors of Wangfujin, where I ate sweet rice, baozi and silkworm (yes, silkworm… and although it doesn’t taste as bad as you’d think, it’s also not fantastic).

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We ended orientation with the last day of the New Year, yuanxiaojie. Happy year of the horse, friends and family!

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A Tale of Two Cities (2014 Edition)

After a wonderful (and in retrospect, rather insane) side-trip to Europe, I’m writing down a few of the highlights before launching into Beijing.

LONDON

-Getting complimented on my British accent by a group of drunken middle-aged revelers.  After the group made fun of Kristen and me for saying bathroom, I retorted something about “using the loo” in my first attempt at a British accent in the U.K.  One man nodded thoughtfully.  “Not bad… actually, not bad at all…”

-Seeing graffiti on the royal throne at Westminster.   Apparently, rowdy schoolboys are rowdy schoolboys regardless of the century, and the throne is filled with “J + R FOREVER <333” from an unfortunate public display in the 1800’s.

-Almost meeting Benedict Cumberbatch.  After running to the Apple store for some computer issues, I started to make small talk with the employee after my credit card wouldn’t swipe for the 9th time.  “So Nick Frost coming tonight… that’s pretty cool,” I say.  He nods.  “But you know what’s cooler?  Benedict Cumberbatch is coming tomorrow.”

Cue gasps, loud noises, etc.  Anyway, I got the time wrong and ended up missing him, but passed the information onto Katie who managed to see both him and Martin Freeman in the flesh.  So, rather disappointing, but I still at least had the opportunity to meet him…

-Dancing to 50’s rock until 2AM at a pub in Camden.  We Americans were ripping up the dance floor, and Grace even busted out some swing dance moves.  I think I might have seen Nick do the Charleston, but I don’t have hard evidence, so it will remain speculation.  Many thanks to DJ Sue for an excellent last night in London.Image

LA FRANCE

-A (barely) trilingual conversation with at a Chinese restaurant (the only food place open at 9PM on a Sunday).  After failing to order dinner in French, we tried in English, and finally broken Chinese, which did the trick.  It took about 10 minutes.  A rather foreboding omen for China…

-Falling down half a flight of Metro stairs with two forty-pound bags of luggage.  Three Frenchmen rushed to my aid.  “Tu es blesse?  Tu est blesse, mademoiselle?  C’est grave?”  All my high school French rushed back to me, which consisted of “Non.  Non, non. D’accord.”

-Seeing high school buddies Craig and Sharon and eating a home-cooked meal at an apartment in Montmartre.  Look at this view and tell me you don’t feel Parisian! Image

-Outsmarting a Frenchman who thought he could rip Kristen and me off because we were young Americans.  Well, excuse me, Monsieur, but I can read signs.  It says 10 euro for a three course meal.  No, I will not take the 15 euro option because “the 10 euro one is closed on Sundays.”  I saw an old lady order it 5 minutes ago.  Yes, I will have my third and final course, even though you were ready to give me the bill before I’d ordered it.

Next up: Journey to the West  East